For this same festive and hot week-end, capture a stately pineapple. But do not waste it at dessert, when most guests will gladly exchange the heat and effort of the dining-room for the scented solitude à deux of the star-lit garden. Use it for a combined entremet and fruit course, cutting it in half through the crown of leaves downwards, then scoop out the fruit, and make it into a very good water or cream ice in the usual way. One hollowed-out pineapple, lying lengthwise on a silver dish will be filled with this, the other with a fairly stiff compote of red cherries, fresh or bottled. Those put up with maraschino or in heavy syrup are popular. Serve with this, freshly baked Cat's Tongue Biscuits. Here is the jealously guarded formula...
Agnes Jekyll
Kitchen Essays ('"Le mot juste" in food')
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